Outside of Time in a Romantic Tower in Tuscany

The most romantic evening I’ve ever spent was in this tower set into the medieval walls of Monticchiello overlooking the Monte Amiata in the Val D’Orcia. The Etruscans believed that the Amiata volcano, now extinct, was the home of the gods.

A glance out the bedroom window of the tower with the Amiata out in the distance is enough to convince anyone that somehow this place is imbued with the magic and mystery of another place in time.

Or maybe that falling into bed here is like falling out of time altogether.

Downstairs on the main floor is a cozy room with a table for two as well as…

…an inviting sofa and a kitchenette hidden in the green armadio.

There’s not much need for cooking, however, because the Osteria La Porta is next door. I discovered the tower when I had lunch there on the terrace on a sunny Sunday afternoon. I had actually gotten lost trying to get back to Siena and stumbled on Monticchiello. (See post).


I was back yesterday burrata sandwiched between light purées of tomato and artichokes…

…followed by homemade ricotta and spinach tortellini topped with truffles and parmesan. And, a glass of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano made a few kilometers away.


Owner, Daria Capelli, generously gives everyone the sense that she’s welcoming them for lunch or dinner in her home. The menu is full of local specialties: “Pici” (something like spaghetti), Pecorino di Pienza cheese, Prosciutto di Cinta Senese, and main dishes like boar, pigeon, and the famous Fiorentina steak.


The wine list includes some international wines and some from other regions of Italy, but the local wines dominate. Of the 250 producers of Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Daria has 40. My favorite is Cupano. And of course, there is a wide selection of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG, Rosso di Montalcino DOC, Rosso di Montepulciano DOC as well as Val D’Orcia DOC and Montecucco DOC (Monte Amiata).

Find out more about a stay in the Tower (Il Torrino)

Or reserve at the Osteria.

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