Alta Langa: Trattoria Coccinella

High up in the Alta Langa between Barolo and the sea, the three Dellaferrara brothers run a remarkable trattoria that could be called a ristorante. It has the local, family feel of the former with the elegance and cuisine of the latter.
3 brothers copy Massimo does his magic in the kitchen while Tiziano and Alessandro strike just the right balance between joviality and polish out front. (Photo courtesy of La Coccinella)

You might easily drive by the Coccinella (“ladybug” in Italian) for its humble appearance and because of the spectacular scenery in the area. The Alta Langa is the untamed cousin of the more developed area around Barolo where a monoculture of vineyards pervades. Here, woodlands and fruit and hazelnut trees give way only occasionally to vines.
landscape

The Alta Langa are above Barolo, La Morra, Castiglione Falletto and Montforte D’Alba…
Coccinella map

On the way toward Liguria and the Italian Riviera.
Coccinella Sea copy

Consequently, the menu offers a delightful combination of “land” and “sea” dishes. I sat down to the simple refinement of this table,

table setting

And soon had a crisp glass of Roero Arneis…

with wine

Along with an amuse bouche of local salami with cheese.
amuse bouche

For lunch on a warm summer day, I ordered carpaccio di pesce (slices of raw fish) on thin bed of fresh mozzarella cheese. The very fresh fish, the beautiful presentation and the slight creative twist of adding the cheese made the dish memorable.
pesce crudo

I skipped delicious Piemontese favorites like Tajarin al Ragu (Tagliatelle with Meat Sauce), a Fritto (Fried Dish) of veal, asparagus and zucchini, Au Gratin Asparagus, Gnocchi with Hazelnuts, Rosemary and Butter, etc., and went straight to homemade raspberry sherbet for dessert.
sorbetto

Followed by espresso and a lovely plate of treats.
cafe

My dream is to go back in the fall when the fire is roaring to try the meat dishes and local Piemontese cheeses with red wine from Coccinella’s amazing local wine list. It includes greats like Giacomo Conterno as well as extraordinary but less well known artisans like Ferdinando Principiano.

Conterno

Trattoria Coccinella
Via Provinciale, 5
12050 Serravalle Langhe (CN)
tel:0173 748220
cell:339 3591682
ale@trattoriacoccinella.com
Closed all day Tuesday and Wednesday at lunch.

For more information on traveling in the Langhe or in other parts of Italy, contact Eleanor or see the Travel Pages on Uncorked In Italy.

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